July 23 – Ilulissat and the Icefjord


Today is another gorgeous sunny day.  Ilulissat is also in Disko Bay and is right beside the Icefjord.  Icefjord is a 40 kilometer fjord that is stuffed full of icebergs from the Jakobshavn Glacier, the most productive glacier in the Northern Hemisphere.  The glacier produces about 20 to 30 billion (yes, with a B) tons of icebergs a year.

While waiting for the tenders to take us ashore these three crew members were hanging out, also waiting for the tenders to arrive.
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Icefjord is so full of icebergs because there is an underwater mountain near the mouth of the fjord that stops the larger icebergs from leaving the fjord…so everything backs up into the fjord until eventually a giant iceberg melts enough or falls apart into pieces small enough to leave the fjord. 

Our morning excursion was a boat trip to the mouth of the fjord.  On the way we got  distracted for a fair amount of time so that we could watch a couple of humpback whales feeding in a small bay near the mouth of the fjord.  We were able to get fairly close.
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More Photos of Whales

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After lots of whale watching we eventually headed out through the icebergs…most were really huge.
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One had a large hole in it near the top.
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And one formation on the top of the berg looked a bit like a snow sunbather.  
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And another had a pretty nice waterfall flowing off the side.
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We were joined by a lot of other boats.  Some were tourist boats and ferries and many were fishing boats.
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In the distance there was a boat that had lots of sea gulls hanging around looking for a snack.  And in the mountains beyond you could just see the edge of the ice cap.
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Of course there were plenty of birds following the boat and hanging around the icebergs.
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After lunch we took the tender to port and hiked across town...
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where we eventually passed an area where working dogs are kept.  They are kept outdoors all year round, even in the cold winters.  They are chained but the puppies roam free.  They are working dogs and we were warned to not approach them.  There are almost as many dogs in Ilulissat as there are people (population ~4500, 3rd largest town in Greenland).  
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Eventually we reached the boardwalk that would lead us out to Icefjord.  The walk took a while but the scenery was great. 
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The trail took us to a great overlook with a 180 degree view of the fjord. 
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Icefjord is a UNESCO World Heritage site and we both agree that it was one of the most unique and beautiful places we have ever seen.  
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As we have seen all over Greenland, it is still their spring and the wild flowers are everywhere.  
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Ilulissat as we sailed away that evening.
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